C4HP: Pro Clinic on Off-Season Finger Strength Training and Overall Strength Training

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The goal is strength training.

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Strength training is increasing max effort forces.

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The thing we need to worry about.

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So you just need to work hard.

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It has to be heavy.

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It has to feel heavy..

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Hey, y'all I'm Ryan Devlin and welcome to this struggle climbing show pro clinic with coaches, Collin McGee and Jesse Firestone of camp for human performance focused on off season finger strength training, and just overall strength training from toes to nose.

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How are you doing today? I hope you're doing awesome.

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I'm doing awesome because we are about to geek out over training and I love me some training nerdery.

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Now this is an area of particular expertise and interest for Collin and Jesse.

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And they deliver the goods today.

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You guys, as we explore what our quote unquote off season even is.

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Depending on what type of climber we are and what our overall lifestyle is.

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What adaptations we should be seeking in a strength training program, why strength, training doesn't and perhaps even shouldn't look like climbing.

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And then, and here's the gold we get into very clear and specific protocols and programming ideas for how to get stronger fingers in about 20 minutes a week.

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Thank you very much, which big muscle exercises to group together for optimal efficiency and gains.

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We get into set and rep recommendations.

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And we even then get into very specifically programs like, Hey, here's day a and day B.

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Here's what you should be doing after your warmup.

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So if you want to be handed a very clear idea of what you could be doing in your off season and how to build strength from your fingers to your nose, to your toes and everything in between, this is the pro clinic for you.

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Now you probably recognize today's guests, as they're both quite prolific in the climbing slash coaching world.

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Coach Jay fire was of course, a recent guest on our show offering up a pro clinic of his own on the best ways to start off the year.

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I loved that interview.

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You should revisit if you haven't heard it.

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He's been climbing for 17 years and he's coached climbers around the world from those who've only been climbing for a few months to those sending And participating in world cups.

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Now coach Colin McGee is a highly certified and experienced strength and conditioning coach who works with people from all walks of life.

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And he has a specialization in SNC for climbers.

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He's a fellow weekend warrior who believes in providing fun, positive training experiences based on education to better people's lives and sports performance.

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And he's also just an incredible content creator.

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If you're not following on Instagram, you've got to check out the stuff he puts out.

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It's really funny.

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It's really informative and it's super helpful.

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I'll link to all that stuff in the show notes.

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Now both Colin and Jesse are part of the camp for human performance coaching team, working closely with Dr.

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Tyler Nelson, who of course has been a frequent guest on the show here.

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And in this conversation, research meets real life.

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As we set out to leave you, yes, you with a very clear idea of how to bring strength training into your weekly routine.

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In a way that will not only improve your climbing performance.

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Awesome, but will also help you to be more resilient to injury and just feel better in every aspect of your life.

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Let's go.

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And guys, I just want to take a second here to shout out all of you patrons and apple subscribers out there, not just of my show, but of everybody who's working hard to put out content.

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For the climbing world and beyond.

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So I'm a patron of a lot of shows.

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I'm a patron of power company, climbing of a normal cast and the run-out of camp for human performance.

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Today's guests, the nugget, Aiden and Sam's careless talk podcast.

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There's like loads of Patriots that I'm a member of.

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And I love it.

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I get such good bonus content being a part of those, those communities.

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But also beyond that, I just feel really good every month to support people who are working really hard to put out quality content, to make me a better climber and just bring joy to my life.

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So I am a creator myself, but I also support a lot of creators.

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And if you have the means to support what I'm doing here at the struggle, I would love your support over at patrion.com/the

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struggle climbing show.

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And again, if you can support the camp four guys, and anybody else that you are enjoying as a climber.

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That would be awesome.

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Thank you.

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I love you.

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and one more thing here.

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Listen to the very end where I'm going to tell you how you can win a custom self guided 12 week plan, plus a consultation with coach Colin McGee He's graciously giving away one of these plans to one of our listeners here.

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And I'll also share a code on how you can get a huge discount off of that plan as well.

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If you don't win the giveaway.

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All right.

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Let's dial in some strength with Colin McGee and Jesse Firestone.

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I think probably the place to start will be to try to define what off season strength training really means, and then we can get into some ideas and some applications and methodologies and maybe even a little bit of talk around programming and this kind of thing.

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But there's kind of two terms that I'm sandwiching together here that we should pick apart.

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One is off season, And one is strength training.

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and I bring up off season selfishly because I'm in the off season right now.

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As we're recording this, it's June, and I'm in Kentucky.

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And so I would consider this, for me, off season because it's quite hot and humid now.

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My sun seasons are kind of the spring and the fall.

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but that's not always the case for everybody.

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And oftentimes, you know, Summer is the season.

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That's when people are able to travel and get out to, rifle or get to some, you know, some of these places where, due to their work schedule or school or whatever, like this is send season.

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So while this is off season for me, and I don't even know what that means, cause I'm, I'm going out to the red tomorrow, it's maybe worth having a few minutes of conversation through your lens here, what off season is, and Jesse, maybe I'll start with you because you just noted that.

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in your estimation, most of what we do is kind of quote unquote off season.

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So how do you think about off season? How can we try to define that for the purposes of this conversation? So I think the one big thing with like contemplating having an off season and an on season is just gaining control of the sort of natural curve of athletic performance that you're going to have.

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Like, I think we have this tendency to see people on Instagram sending like, you know, 15 B or 15 C or whatever.

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And we just see that every few months.

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And so we assume that they're pretty good.

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Their performance is like this, you know, constant line of like, I send 15 B every two months or whatever, but actually that's like representative of this kind of sine wave that you get where they're like, they're having peak moments where they're sending really hard.

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And they're probably having low moments where they're more tired at the crag and they're trying really hard, but they're like not getting as much out of it.

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Right.

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And so the goal of like having an on season and off season is to kind of gain control of that curve.

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And hopefully you don't have to have periodized training, which we can talk about what that means too, but you don't have to periodize things in order to have control of that curve.

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It's more like, what are we focusing on getting out of our climbing and our athletic development right now? Probably during the on season or the in season.

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The goal is to perform in climbing and to have those experiences that we're going to remember for the rest of our life.

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Right.

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That's, that's what we want.

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That's probably what most people are focused on most of the time, I would say.

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And then the off season is more like you, if you know that you're naturally going to have this kind of decline where you're getting tired, you're not climbing as well and stuff.

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And that's usually going to coincide with conditions.

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If you mostly climb outside.

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You might as well automatically kind of consider that you're off season and work on some other aspects of your athleticism.

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Right.

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That's kind of like the general idea of seasonality.

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And then there's a whole bunch of concordant things that come with that, like changing your, your velocity and the intensity of your training or like the variability of your training, yada, yada, yada.

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And, and maybe I'll, maybe I'll, uh, let Colin bounce in and define strength training, unless you have something else to add, right? Well, yeah, just one follow up question on that.

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And then we'll, we'll get into the definition of strength training and that's for those who may be either, climb predominantly inside at a gym or, they travel and they follow the conditions.

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And in essence, there isn't an environmental, kind of demarcation on, on, on season and off season, like I'm talking about here in Kentucky.

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Are you saying then it's still this, this sine wave where you're going to have periods of, of higher energy and lower energy.

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And so do you have to essentially force an off season or, or is it still apparent when those, those periods are upon us? Cause we start to just feel it.

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it's basically, it's going to happen one way or another.

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So how on your on season is and how off your off season is, is really going to depend by the athlete, right? So if somebody climbs in a gym 12 months a year.

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They're mostly focused on gym bouldering.

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That's the experience they want.

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Their in season and off season might not be a huge shift.

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It might just be like going from doing a couple maintenance strength training exercises to doing a full day of strength training for their off season and kind of like, that's it.

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You know what I mean? It's like their, their volume of training changes very slightly.

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Their climbing output changes very slightly for somebody who is more focused on climbing outside, it's probably going to be more dramatic.

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And then for somebody who's like.

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Maybe living in a city and they just have a few weeks, a year to go climb outside, but that's what they're focused on.

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That's where you get that really dramatic shift of like most of their year is actually the off season.

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And then they have like a few weeks where they're in season.

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Right.

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So it is like a very individualized sort of personal thing.

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And I mean, it's funny to me to be doing this call right now, because like you said, summer is kind of a traditional off season for most people, but I'm leaving for a two month climbing trip and like.

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You know, 10 days or something.

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And my spring climbing season, like hasn't ended yet.

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So not a lot of time for an off season than the interim.

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Right.

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And that's just like, right.

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Kind of a natural, side effect of being like an outdoor focused climber is I will have to spend, I already spent some of my spring season training and I will have to spend some of this summer trip that I'm going on in the gym in order to maintain that longer performance season, right.

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It's kind of like a natural, natural consequence.

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Yeah.

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That's super important.

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And I think as we get into maybe talking about, some programming, we can, we can tease that apart a little bit more because I, I, I think for me, I've got a little bit of confusion around that.

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and, and I think those who are listening probably would like some general ideas on periodization like you're talking about in some of those phases, but let's, let's talk about strength training and, as we're sandwiching those terms together, off season strength training, Colin, how, how do you consider strength training? I think the main issue I see working with climbers and whether that's the enthusiast that's outside all the time or in the gym is the definition of strength gets, whispered down the alley and it kind of gets just confused where if we would go and talk to maybe, exercise physiologist or whatever that goes through some more academia, strength training seems pretty straightforward.

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And I think the first thing is to.

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Bring some objectivity to strength training.

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I brought out my book from the library here in the gym.

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for any viewers, it's called super training.

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It's in the thing.

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and this is like one of the classic books that is so dense.

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I haven't read this.

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It's the words and syllables are too big for even me.

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and if you don't happen to have a kettlebell nearby, it looks like you could just use that as, Oh, a hundred percent.

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This thing is thick with a lot of C's.

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Thousands of pages.

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Anyway, the book author Uri Vergeschansky is, you know, one of the Godfathers of strength training.

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And very simply, like in the first, like page one, it talks about strength training, classically being defined as the ability of a given muscle or group of muscles to produce force under a specific context.

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And so strength training is all about producing efforts.

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So for those that don't really understand muscular force, it's just effort.

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Like how hard can you work? When you shake my hand, can you squeeze it really hard? And do I go out or is it like really soft? Like that's just effort.

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And when it comes to strength training, no matter if it's fingers or hamstrings for heel hooking or a squat, push or pull for just general strength, we're trying to increase our body's ability to do that.

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To give effort and there are just certain ways to go about that.

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I think then once we have that, because I'll talk to, I think the classic thing is, Oh, to get stronger at climbing, you just climb more.

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Or I was talking to a friend, dad the other day about mountain biking.

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He's like, Oh, I'm working on strengthening my knee by going out and riding more.

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But if we go back to a classical definition of strength training, that it's, I need to produce more force.

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Therefore, we probably have to be working at a higher percentage of this maximum to do that.

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We look at mountain biking and climbing and all of that.

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And it's really submaximal done for hundreds, if not thousands of reps, if you're running or cycling.

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And then if we kind of think backwards, like, well, I can't really be strength training.

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You're getting better.

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And maybe a little bit of strength is aiding into those things, but I think it's all of that kind of conversation that kind of makes things confusing.

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So hopefully at the end of the day, We just know that strength training is increasing our ability to give near maximum effort and increasing our maximum.

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And then, you know, we'll dive into the nuance of that continuum of strength, strength, that speed strength, endurance, right? All these types of things, but we have to be working hard and it has to be pretty heavy or high effort to be considered strength training in that realm.

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and then the second biggest point I think about strength training to understand is that There's a big thing out there that strength training is bad for climbing, makes you a bad climber.

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and in my head, I see this movie scenario where someone who, let's say they have a goal of climbing V10 outside and they're a hardcore outdoor climber.

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They walk into the gym and they see maybe Jim bro, Jim bro has big muscles.

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And then they just saw them leave the bench press.

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They go over and they're flopping around on the V3 and they must go, Oh, see big muscle, bad for climbing.

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But you don't know that climbing is their goal.

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Like, have you talked to the person and said, are you trying to actually improve or are you just inside and you're, you love fitness and you love getting stronger.

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And the new climbing gym just opened up on the block and that thing looks sweet.

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I've never been into a fitness gym with big plastic walls to climb on.

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because Jesse and I were talking about this a little bit last night, where for me and my people, I've never, ever, ever, ever, ever heard a climber go.

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I got stronger.

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And I got worse at climbing.

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Right.

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Never, no sport in the world has ever said that.

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and even to the misconceptions where you like, you know, touch a dumbbell and then poof, you look like Arnold Schwarzenegger and like, no, no, no, like, like, you know, realistically it's not gonna kind of happen.

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And then.

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Climbing.

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there's plenty of big, big bodybuilding, like physiques that are super flexible and super athletic mobile.

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So it's never the thing that makes you bad.

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It's the lack of, you know, so going back to the gym bro person, it's not.

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The fact that they're strong and muscular and made them bad at this hypothetical V3, maybe just not the time spent climbing.

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And I don't think any one of us or any coaches and our colleagues in our circles who really push strength training, we don't say strength train only, don't climb.

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Like I've never once told someone to say, hire me and don't even look at Jesse.

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Like he's not going to help you.

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Like I was like, you have to be with Jesse alongside strength training.

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Otherwise it's not going to make sense.

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If your goal is to get better at climbing and me, the avatar, I've come from a strength training background.

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So this was kind of easy.

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Therefore I knew what to do.

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But then when I worked with Jesse, you know, this climbing skills rock philosopher, but all this stuff, that's where my.

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Climbing really took off and it's that aha moment with every other sport as well is you want to become more physically capable, which is what strength training does.

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You want to become more resilient.

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To the oh, shit moments that sports give you when you get hurt.

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And then you take those two main benefits and then you learn how to apply them to the skill of the sport and you get better.

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You just rinse, wash and repeat.

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You ping pong those things back and forth until the day our time here is no longer.

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And that's how you see your true potential when it comes to climbing.

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but again, to zoom out, no one is saying that strength train only forget about learning how to climb better.

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Right.

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Where I think it kind of gets mixed up and like, Oh, it can't be good for climbing.

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It doesn't look like climbing all people who are stronger, bad climbers.

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Like, no, no, no, no, no.

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Right.

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It's understand what strength training does for us, physical capability to do more things, physical tolerance to handle more load.

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And then we can climb more and we can learn how to get better.

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And then, you know, your genetics and your confidence and your psychology, all that is going to help you see your ceiling.

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but both of those things kind of need to balance themselves out, so to speak, depending on your goals at the end of the day.

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Well, I appreciate that.

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And I think that, you know, for those who have, who followed you guys, Tyler, some of the other, you know, fantastic coaches and, trainers that are on there and Natasha put some really good content out as well.

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you know, I think what is clear is that there are a lot of different ways to build strength and we certainly can and do build strength on the wall.

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we can climb slowly on small holds and, you know, build some finger strength that way.

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And we can practice heel hooks like, Jesse, you put out recently, climbing like kind of the arete of your board where you're like heel hooking everything and that's going to be building some strength and that kind of thing.

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But maybe, and, and tell me if I'm oversimplifying, but for purposes of this conversation, maybe we turn our sights to.

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Off the wall strength training as we're talking about off season.

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And yes, we're still going to be climbing.

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Most people are still going to get some gym days in or some crag days.

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And like I am, it's going to be 85 degrees and probably 90 percent humidity, but I'm still going out because it's fun to be in nature and it's fun to move over a rock.

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And I'm not going to be trying to climb my 13 a project.

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I'll, you know, just be sweating up a, you know, some five tens or something like that, but it brings me joy and happiness.

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so, so there is still going to be that movement in there.

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But maybe for purposes of this conversation, as we're talking about off season strength training, most of, if not all of our focus will be on building strength, off the wall.

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So I don't know, weightlifting or calisthenics or heavy hangs or isometric pulls and these kinds of things, which we can get into.

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Is that a fair place to start? So I think, I think the issue that, that Colin brought up of people sort of assuming that strength might be bad or that strength training might be comes from.

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A lack of specificity of language, like we have this tendency as climbers to be like, Oh yeah, that guy, that person's a really strong climber, but we don't actually like talk about what that means.

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So some people might say like, you know, Sean Bailey is a really strong climber and like, that's absolutely true.

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He is a really strong person in all the ways that matter for being a rock climber.

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I don't know how much he can like, you know, bench or, or squat, but I would, you know, I think I'd go out on a limb and say that it's probably nothing like world class, right.

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But he is a world class rock climber in terms of his force development, where it counts.

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So when you, even when you start to talk about things like doing the wall crawls and trying to get your, your fingers to feel better on small holds, the specificity of language thing would make me say that is developing coordination of the fingers and not necessarily like pure force development.

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Right.

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And this gets into one of the most important things in strength training, which is the said principle.

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And I'm not sure if you've covered that on the podcast before, but the things that we train create adaptations and we need to kind of work backwards.

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We need to pick the adaptations that we want to get out of our training and train something that's going to give them.

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So the said principle is specific adaptation to impose demand basically means you get better at whatever you tell yourself to do.

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So I'm with you on the, I'm with you on the idea of this podcast being about off the wall strength training, but.

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As far as like the positional strength thing I posted not long ago, where I'm doing the heel hooks up the board and I'm holding those isometric positions.

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That is very literally strength training, like in terms of the force velocity spectrum or continuum, like that is on the strength end of things.

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And that is actually a type of climbing that I think would be like pretty productive for people to do in their off season.

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That's pretty nuanced.

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And I don't think like every climber needs to worry about doing that, but there are definitely like some tweaks that we could make to the actual content of the climbing.

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during an off season to like, hopefully get the adaptations that we want from our, our off season block.

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That said, most of those, most of these things are going to be off the wall.

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So I think you're, you're dead on that, like worrying about the weight room and finger training and stuff like that probably makes more sense.

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I just think it's important to kind of step back and think about the adaptations, point of view, because I think that's something that gets lost in this conversation because people are like, Oh, I want to get, you know, stronger.

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Like that's something you hear all the time in consults.

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Like my, I just need stronger fingers, you know, and then you look at the numbers that this person can do on a max hang or on a pickup and it's like, well, I don't know what your definition of strength is, but you're not lacking for.

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You know, the ability to put force through your fingers.

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So you're probably, it's like, it's either the speed that you can produce that force, or it's the coordination of being able to do it on a small enough hold, or your technique sucks and you need to learn how to get your body underneath the hole so that you can exert force on it.

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You know, being more specific with that language really helps us make sure that we train the right thing.

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Otherwise, we're going to have a two month off season where we do a bunch of crap and we go right into the next season with all the same deficits that we had before.

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Yeah, no, I appreciate the, the nuance there.

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And, we certainly don't need to, exclude on the wall training, right? So like the purpose of this podcast isn't, off the wall training, it's off season strength training.

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So if it, you know, if you feel one of the best protocols to talk about is something to do on wall, awesome.

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but maybe just naturally a lot of this conversation will turn to things that we can do off the wall, which for somebody like me with a couple of jobs and a couple of kids, I'm constantly looking for the things that I can do that are most bang for the buck.

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so in terms of these adaptations that we're going to be looking for kind of off season to develop, What, what do you think they are? I think if I had to generalize when it comes to the climbing, getting heavy on the weights is probably one of the best things, because if you look at rock climbing, if you're kind of doing it.

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With good efficiency and technique, your feet are on.

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And so everything's going to be pretty sub body weights, and sub maximal.

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Now the isometric version of things.

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So a heel hook that you're squeezing into a hold or you're gripping into a hold that allows you to actually work towards a hundred percent effort.

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So if you're doing the wall crawls and kind of the heel hook stuff that we mentioned, from Jesse's videos, and you really squeeze into the arret and you really squeeze into those holds and almost like over grip it intentionally.

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you're definitely going to have a opportunity to get a strength training stimulus out of those things.

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But for the majority of our muscle groups and joints and positions, it's just not gonna get the job done.

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It's also not organized because it's chaotic and the reps and the sets and the, where the force is coming from, what we're using the speed.

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and so that's why when you go off the wall and you go into like a weight room, There's numbers on the dumbbells.

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So, you know, exactly where kind of the start and then where kind of the go, we have these overarching principles that guide us in the realm.

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So I think one of the biggest, lowest hanging fruits for the climber avatar to pluck and this off season is when we are spending a little less time on the wall, it's that, which we don't get on the wall, which is this heavy movement.

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under organization, under progression, and progressive overload is one of those principles that I think is really easy.

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To incorporate into a lifestyle that you have a lot of time or a lifestyle that you are crazy and like, I have two clients and then I got to go do two exercises and then I got to coach three athletes and they're like, Oh, time to go get a squad in.

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but at the end of the day, my body didn't really care about how I organized it.

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It just needed to be, you know, checking those boxes of the strength training principles and then it's going to get it done.

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so to back up there, finding.

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Yeah.

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The movements and the intensities and these loads for nose to toes that I don't get on the climbing wall is what I'm going to seek.

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more of in an off season strength training program.

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And so that's where maybe I do leg based things and push based things and pull based things with weights on a machine or dumbbells because I can control, I can get things heavy and that is going to start to deposit more of this physical capability and physical tolerance.

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In that big bank that we can kind of make the analogy to that we can slowly build over this off season, whatever that is the definition for you.

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And then.

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Once we get closer to that climbing season, we can start to make the withdrawals and now we can start to apply all of that, which we were slowly kind of building up.

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Got it.

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Got it.

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And, and in this, part of the strength training.

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phase, if you will.

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And we'll talk about ongoing as well, because I don't think we just, you know, let the weights collect dust as we're getting into a performance phase.

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But right now, you know, recording this in June, I'm going to be looking to perform in October or November.

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I got some time.

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So is it, is it true and safe to say that at least now where I'm at or at the start of any truly off the wall strength phase season that One doesn't need to worry about making exercises feel like, or look like, or be specific to what climbing itself is.

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Yeah.

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You don't, you don't really need to do that in October either.

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I don't think like the goal, like Colin was saying, the goal of, if you're going to use the word strength, like the goal of strength training is to be able to produce more force.

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So like more compound, heavier, like more, you know, simple in terms of how much stuff you have to do while you're actually moving, the weight is pretty Just generally better for strength training, the more like specific and nuanced, it gets probably like the less it's actually like helping you, in terms of strength training.

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Now there's like there's specificity and that's kind of like a different thing.

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So if somebody really has like a shoulder project and they really want to get stronger in a certain like range with their, their shoulder and like abduction and internal rotation, or like when it's way out to the side or something like that, yeah, you can get a little bit more nuanced with some of the selections.

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That's probably not something you need to do while they're climbing on their project in October.

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Right.

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And in terms of increasing your overall force production, you still want to work in the basic ranges in a heavier way for probably most of the off season.

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And then have like a small dose of that more nuanced training.

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So like the thing that was going through my head while Colin was talking about like kind of general, off season concepts a second ago was like, for me, when I'm writing plans for athletes.

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For an in season plan, I feel like I really need to pick the things where like what is the most important pieces of athleticism I need to help this person maintain during their season that they're not going to get from climbing and that is going to be a short list because a necessary consequence of them being in season is I can't let them get super tired in the weight room, right? They need to stay frosty for the weekends or whatever so they can go climbing and get tired from their climbing.

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But in the off season, it kind of flips a little bit, right? If we take that, if we have like an assumption that it's someone who has like a pretty defined in season and off season, right? So that's kind of our general assumption.

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Then we can say in the in season, I'm going to be very particular.

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I'm going to pick a handful of things that I think the biggest bang for the buck.

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I'm not going to get them tired.

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It's going to be hard and they're going to get out of there really fast, right? In the off season, we can get a little more tired.

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We can have a little more variability.

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They can maybe do a little bit of like FAFO training, like fuck around and find out training and kind of just like explore things that they're interested in, in their athleticism.

302
00:27:43,947.7833941 --> 00:27:44,257.7833941
Right.

303
00:27:44,547.7843941 --> 00:27:48,27.7843941
And, and they might get a little bit more tired, do like a little bit more volume.

304
00:27:48,37.7843941 --> 00:27:53,357.7843941
Cause if they show up to their climbing session, a little bit more tired during that off season, it's not as big of a penalty.

305
00:27:53,387.7843941 --> 00:27:53,647.7843941
Right.

306
00:27:53,677.7843941 --> 00:28:01,687.7843941
As long as we have some time kind of at the end of the off season or going into their in season where they can kind of like refine their skills and sort of like, you know, Yeah.

307
00:28:01,967.7843941 --> 00:28:06,27.7843941
Like bring the lines into better focus in terms of how they actually climb on the wall and stuff like that.

308
00:28:06,147.7843941 --> 00:28:08,537.7843941
So that's kind of how, that's kind of how I think about it.

309
00:28:08,537.7843941 --> 00:28:17,247.7843941
It's more like a, how much bandwidth do I have as a coach to make athletic development and in the off season, we just generally have a lot more runway, a lot more bandwidth to make changes.

310
00:28:17,580.3115516 --> 00:28:17,770.3115516
Yep.

311
00:28:17,870.3105516 --> 00:28:26,605.0353911
And I think a big thing to double up on what Jess said is like when the goal shifts, keep the goal, the goal, and that's a classic Dan John quote that you'll hear from every other strength coach ever.

312
00:28:26,895.0343911 --> 00:28:28,655.0343911
and so one of the comments.

313
00:28:29,190.0343911 --> 00:28:35,470.0343911
Because of that is, oh man, I'm not sending as hard or as often on the moon board now that we're in off season.

314
00:28:35,470.0343911 --> 00:28:36,770.0343911
Like that's okay.

315
00:28:37,230.0343911 --> 00:28:43,400.0343911
No, because we've agreed upon in our consultation or me that, you know, our goal right now is to get stronger and to like dial it back.

316
00:28:43,730.0343911 --> 00:28:44,490.0343911
So.

317
00:28:44,925.0343911 --> 00:28:47,805.0343911
Your expectations have to change along with that.

318
00:28:47,805.0343911 --> 00:28:49,455.0343911
And you have to be accepting of those things.

319
00:28:49,675.0343911 --> 00:28:54,985.0343911
So I have to accept the fact that I'm going to go on there and some V1s are going to feel absolutely terrible.

320
00:28:55,255.0343911 --> 00:28:57,845.0333911
My bench press is going to go up and my shoulders are going to get stronger.

321
00:28:57,845.0343911 --> 00:28:59,65.0343911
My legs are going to get stronger.

322
00:28:59,65.0343911 --> 00:29:03,785.0343911
I'm going to be more ready to then switch goals a little bit.

323
00:29:04,735.0343911 --> 00:29:07,495.0343911
So now I maybe again, don't eliminate lifting.

324
00:29:07,885.0343911 --> 00:29:13,945.0343911
But now my expectation is I'm not going to lift as much, but my expectations are going to be a lot higher because that's where I'm allocating my resources down.

325
00:29:14,225.0343911 --> 00:29:27,995.0343911
So it's kind of like taking your chips and you just kind of like shuffling around and you always have a little bit on everything, but where the majority of the chips are should be where your attention is focused and you shouldn't be too worried about your climbing performance going down.

326
00:29:28,405.0343911 --> 00:29:31,265.0343911
in a situation where it's not necessarily the goal.

327
00:29:31,375.0343911 --> 00:29:31,871.3726614
So that's okay.

328
00:29:32,245.4643369 --> 00:29:32,555.4643369
Got it.

329
00:29:32,818.7976702 --> 00:29:36,678.7971702
And that's, that is exactly the phase that kind of, we're going to be exploring and teasing apart here.

330
00:29:36,678.7971702 --> 00:29:41,888.7976702
And I'm excited to get specific on some muscle systems and, and various exercises.

331
00:29:42,128.7976702 --> 00:29:51,687.0486702
before we do though, I, I want to make sure that I'm still understanding what this phase, that we're focusing on here actually encapsulates.

332
00:29:51,937.1486702 --> 00:30:28,125.4820035
Because we're talking about strength training, but there's also power, right? When it comes to climbing and then there's endurance when it comes to climbing and maybe there's a nebulous gray area that kind of goes between all those, maybe they're not super easy to define, but at least my understanding from listening to you guys, You know, there can be a focus, more of a focus to those, those chips that you're talking about, Colin, like, oh, I'm going to put my chips in strength right now, oh, okay, now my season's starting to approach, maybe I'll shift some of my chips over to power a little bit more, maybe I'll shift them to, to endurance, and at least that's typically the progression that I understand is like strength, power, endurance.

333
00:30:29,115.4820035 --> 00:30:34,965.4820035
or maybe endurance, you know, power endurance and then a little, and then a rest period and then dial up power.

334
00:30:34,965.4820035 --> 00:30:38,675.4810035
And so there's, you know, there's probably quite a bit of nuance that comes into this programming that I'm just glancing over.

335
00:30:38,675.4820035 --> 00:31:04,945.4825035
But if our focus here is on this strength training block, should we solely focus on that or do things like power and endurance actually come into play and in part of this conversation? Do you feel? I think the Venn diagram answer would be to start with strength and assume that's probably the thing that you didn't get the most of during your in season because when you are climbing, if you're the boulder, you've been powering pretty well.

336
00:31:05,275.4825035 --> 00:31:11,445.4825035
And if you're a sport climber, like you at the red, you've been endurancing pretty well, like you're probably pretty good on endurance.

337
00:31:11,735.4825035 --> 00:31:23,555.4815035
So again, it's one of those things like, what have you, Not been doing the most of is probably a good time to start there because that's the bucket that probably got the closest to empty, while you were climbing.

338
00:31:23,735.4815035 --> 00:31:27,535.4815035
Now we can nuance this and split hairs.

339
00:31:27,535.4815035 --> 00:31:31,345.4815035
And I say an assessment is going to let me know exactly where to go.

340
00:31:31,625.4815035 --> 00:31:51,670.4815035
So if we have the opportunity to in person assess you and see how strong you are and see how fast you move, if you have a four sport or a 10 deck at home, and you can do some remote assessments, you You can kind of see if you've been doing baselines where maybe strength has dipped or where your contact strength and that RFD assessment has dipped.

341
00:31:52,0.4815035 --> 00:31:56,660.4815035
And you can get a little bit more objective direction of where to go with your off season training.

342
00:31:57,70.4815035 --> 00:32:22,595.4825035
so via assessments and good coaching conversation is how you know exactly what path to take, but to zoom out and give that 30, 000 view answer Most likely in your in season climbing, you were not heavy, slow, intense, progressive controlled while you were climbing, you were like, Oh God, pumped fall, that kind of stuff.

343
00:32:22,635.4815035 --> 00:32:25,284.9291824
And right now it's time to get back some of that strength.

344
00:32:25,304.9301824 --> 00:32:35,197.1990486
So I think for anyone starting at strength for your first phase or cycle or four to six weeks, probably not a bad idea for the majority of people that are, are hearing this.

345
00:32:35,687.2000486 --> 00:32:36,57.2000486
Got it.

346
00:32:36,507.2000486 --> 00:32:50,277.2000486
the other thing that, that really plays into that you're kind of discussing like classic periodization, like the, which the Anderson brothers really brought to the forefront in the rock climbers training manual and, and I don't know, like anybody who was climbing in like 2005 to 2000.

347
00:32:50,742.2000486 --> 00:33:06,272.1990486
10 or 2015, even maybe probably saw them when they were the rock prodigy article that had the original periodization kind of manual laid out for rock climbing, how to like stack all these adaptations so that you would have this like perfect moment of glory that lasted for like two weeks.

348
00:33:06,272.2000486 --> 00:33:10,692.1990486
But the truth is those guys were working all the time and they only had those two weeks.

349
00:33:10,722.1990486 --> 00:33:13,162.2000486
And so that linear periodization.

350
00:33:13,842.2000486 --> 00:33:27,362.2000486
It's actually like a really risky strategy for performance, right? Because if you stack up all those adaptations and you have your two weeks and you don't send and you drag it on and on and on and on, those things that you trained four months ago are going to be starting to kind of like fall off.

351
00:33:27,432.2000486 --> 00:33:28,452.2000486
Not very long after that.

352
00:33:28,482.1990486 --> 00:33:31,92.1990486
We have what we call the durability of adaptations.

353
00:33:31,102.1990486 --> 00:33:36,162.2000486
So remember I was saying like adaptation is a thing we want to think about first, like what is it that we actually want to get right.

354
00:33:36,162.2000486 --> 00:33:38,402.2000486
And so strength is one of the things we've been talking about the most.

355
00:33:38,892.2000486 --> 00:33:41,542.2000486
The durability of the strength adaptation is very high.

356
00:33:41,542.3000486 --> 00:33:41,562.1000486
Okay.

357
00:33:41,852.2000486 --> 00:33:51,592.2000486
Heavy strength training lasts like 10 to 12 weeks before you detrain, assuming that you're being relatively sedentary, right? You're definitely going to lose other adaptations long before you lose your max strength.

358
00:33:51,912.1990486 --> 00:33:56,322.1990486
And if you're continuing to boulder or sport climb, you will hang on to some of that max strength.

359
00:33:56,352.2000486 --> 00:34:04,582.2000486
It'll, it's going to start to fall off in terms of like how much you can deadlift, how much you can bench and stuff like that, but it's not going to fall off nearly to the degree that power and endurance are.

360
00:34:04,612.2000486 --> 00:34:07,432.2000486
If you move away from those things for a shorter amount of time.

361
00:34:07,832.2000486 --> 00:34:11,452.2000486
Right? So if I'm a boulder, like I just had an injury maybe two months ago.

362
00:34:11,887.2000486 --> 00:34:20,14.1467096
And like coming back, my strength was very high, right? But I needed a few sessions before my power and endurance kind of kicked back in.

363
00:34:20,525.8444754 --> 00:34:27,235.8434754
Because those things have a smaller, a shorter durability of adaptations, right? So they kind of, they come on really quick.

364
00:34:27,245.8434754 --> 00:34:31,565.8444754
You only need a few sessions to get your power back, to get your endurance back, but they also fade pretty quick.

365
00:34:31,875.8444754 --> 00:34:36,245.8444754
So if you want to train strength and then power and then endurance, that's fine.

366
00:34:36,245.8444754 --> 00:34:38,675.8444754
Just expect that your performance window is going to be very short.

367
00:34:39,340.8444754 --> 00:34:43,970.8444754
Which is, you know, obviously most people's next question is, well, then what do I do instead? Right.

368
00:34:44,230.8444754 --> 00:34:52,360.8434754
When it's like, yeah, it's more complicated, but you, you kind of train everything all the time during the off season, there's still going to be a bigger focus on strength.

369
00:34:52,450.8434754 --> 00:34:52,820.8434754
Right.

370
00:34:53,60.8444754 --> 00:34:56,380.8444754
And then you're going to maybe mix in a little bit of power as the season gets closer.

371
00:34:56,430.8444754 --> 00:34:56,790.8444754
Right.

372
00:34:57,90.8444754 --> 00:35:04,620.8444754
And once you're in the season properly, most sport climbers can develop the endurance they need, mostly climbing on the wall, maybe doing a little bit of selective.

373
00:35:04,960.8444754 --> 00:35:20,670.8444754
like endurance training in the gym or something like that, but as far as like off the wall stuff, the only reason I would recommend people do like, like endurance finger training, for instance, would be if they can't go outside regularly and climb on their projects or they can't get to the gym during the week, for instance, like those kind of requirements.

374
00:35:21,222.5111421 --> 00:35:25,642.5111421
I'm, I'm a minimalist, probably much more so than Colin and Tyler are like most of my clients.

375
00:35:25,652.5111421 --> 00:35:30,822.5101421
It's like we strength train, we climb outside, we climb in a performance mode as much as we possibly can.

376
00:35:30,822.5111421 --> 00:35:33,452.5106421
We get the adaptations we need as long as we need them.

377
00:35:33,452.5106421 --> 00:35:36,792.5106421
And that lets us lengthen that season and do more climbing.

378
00:35:36,792.5106421 --> 00:35:37,72.5101421
Right.

379
00:35:37,412.5111421 --> 00:35:44,322.5111421
And at the end of the day, the number of times you go outside probably has a bigger impact on your ability to send than any of the numbers that you could assess.

380
00:35:44,362.5111421 --> 00:35:44,692.5111421
Right.

381
00:35:45,272.5111421 --> 00:35:47,102.5111421
That's sort of my, that's sort of my mindset with it.

382
00:35:47,752.5111421 --> 00:35:53,242.5111421
For the type of person who can just, you know, they get a month in Columnos or they get two weeks in rifle or whatever it is.

383
00:35:53,272.5111421 --> 00:35:53,522.5111421
Yes.

384
00:35:53,562.5111421 --> 00:35:55,832.5106421
Linear periodization absolutely makes sense.

385
00:35:55,832.5106421 --> 00:35:57,122.5111421
And I'll do that with clients too.

386
00:35:57,602.5111421 --> 00:36:01,202.5111421
but most of the time it's, it's probably too much of a risk to actually make sense.

387
00:36:02,25.8444754 --> 00:36:11,45.8454754
I think that is applicable to probably a lot of people who are listening right now who, aren't trying to peak for a very specific and narrow window.

388
00:36:11,605.8454754 --> 00:36:20,565.8444754
We all want to perform well on the trips that we go on, but I think many people climb more often than just a couple weeks every four months or something like that.

389
00:36:20,575.8444754 --> 00:36:22,285.8449754
So let's, let's stay there.

390
00:36:22,285.8449754 --> 00:36:28,635.8444754
We can dip into that climber, that kind of theoretical climber, as we're talking through some of these concepts as well.

391
00:36:28,635.8444754 --> 00:36:37,845.8454754
Just if, if it, some of the protocols or things that we're talking about here might differ wildly for that person who is very linearly, periodized.

392
00:36:37,855.8454754 --> 00:36:49,525.8474754
But for those of us like, me and you guys and many of the people who are listening that, you know, want to have a long season and, and be able to perform and have fun and stay healthy, let's maybe stay in that lane for the most part.

393
00:36:49,545.8474754 --> 00:36:51,145.8474754
And let's talk about strength now.

394
00:36:51,395.8474754 --> 00:36:58,195.8474754
we can maybe dabble into how we would start to work in some power or endurance, as that, that off season, quote unquote.

395
00:36:58,515.8474754 --> 00:37:06,585.8464754
is nearing its completion and we're, we're getting better conditions or a trip is coming up, but Colin, you're talking about, some pretty simple stuff here.

396
00:37:07,205.8464754 --> 00:37:08,295.8474754
I know you guys like it simple.

397
00:37:08,295.8474754 --> 00:37:09,225.8464754
I like it complicated.

398
00:37:09,235.8474754 --> 00:37:09,615.8474754
I like it.

399
00:37:10,935.8474754 --> 00:37:15,215.8474754
I want, I want, it's so complicated that I need 20 spreadsheets.

400
00:37:15,235.8474754 --> 00:37:16,645.8474754
That's just, there's comfort.

401
00:37:16,665.8474754 --> 00:37:19,955.8474754
There's comfort in complication for a podcaster like me.

402
00:37:19,955.8474754 --> 00:37:20,535.8474754
I know you guys hate it.

403
00:37:21,252.5141421 --> 00:37:21,992.5141421
I'm just kidding.

404
00:37:21,992.5141421 --> 00:37:24,442.5141421
I, I like it super, super simple as well myself.

405
00:37:24,442.5141421 --> 00:37:35,372.5141421
I mean, I know it's climbers in general love to like geek out over like the newest, latest thing and all that, but I, let's definitely start with simple, which I know you guys enjoy as well because the best workout is the one that you'll do.

406
00:37:35,612.5131421 --> 00:37:47,582.143928
assuming that it's going to be effective and let's talk about the heavy things we should be picking up and putting down and how we maybe look at what we want to.

407
00:37:47,802.244928 --> 00:37:52,861.9608209
Strengthen just in general, right? Cause you said kind of toes to nose.

408
00:37:53,71.9608209 --> 00:38:06,654.8645712
And is that, is it true? Are we looking at like, let's just get strong everywhere or are we saying, let's get super strong in our fingers and our shoulders first and then everything else, maybe if we can fit it in, well, every, every climber is a human.

409
00:38:06,954.8645712 --> 00:38:14,244.8645712
So like, there are just, there are just benefits to strength training in general, like separately from whether or not you want to increase your climbing performance.

410
00:38:14,244.8645712 --> 00:38:14,484.8645712
But.

411
00:38:14,529.9645712 --> 00:38:17,39.8645712
I'm guessing that people hurt cyborg.

412
00:38:17,59.8645712 --> 00:38:22,699.8645712
If we're like, I'm not sure everyone's a human, but most of the people listening to this right now are probably humans.

413
00:38:22,819.8645712 --> 00:38:24,119.8645712
And that's, that's actually a good point.

414
00:38:24,139.8645712 --> 00:38:25,629.8635712
I think Jesse is that like.

415
00:38:25,974.8645712 --> 00:38:26,874.8645712
We're not just talking.

416
00:38:26,914.8645712 --> 00:38:28,324.8645712
Well, let's be honest.

417
00:38:28,324.8645712 --> 00:38:31,514.8645712
We are just talking about sending the next grade here, but fine.

418
00:38:31,514.9645712 --> 00:38:42,104.8655712
Let's let's let's step back for a second and say, Oh, how about, you know, we can be super active into our 80s that's probably a really good thing to aim for as well.

419
00:38:42,104.8655712 --> 00:38:51,501.5312379
So point well made it's the conversation is going to be heard very differently by people listening to this, who are 20 people listening to this, who are 30 people listening to this, who are 50.

420
00:38:51,801.5312379 --> 00:38:55,211.5312379
Because the value of strength training doesn't really change for those people.

421
00:38:55,211.5312379 --> 00:39:01,761.5302379
And in fact, the 20 year olds can put in a quarter of the effort and get three times as much out of it as the 50 year olds.

422
00:39:02,111.5312379 --> 00:39:03,741.5312379
So the value proposition is still great.

423
00:39:03,781.5302379 --> 00:39:07,511.5312379
The difference is that the 50 year olds will have felt it personally in their life.

424
00:39:07,521.5312379 --> 00:39:08,751.5312379
They will know how valuable it is.

425
00:39:08,751.5312379 --> 00:39:16,411.5312379
Whereas the 20 year olds probably haven't caught on to that yet, but every climbers, a human, every climbers, every climbers, a human, and every human is going to benefit from strength training.

426
00:39:16,411.5312379 --> 00:39:16,621.5312379
So.

427
00:39:17,131.5312379 --> 00:39:17,341.5312379
Go ahead.

428
00:39:17,391.5312379 --> 00:39:17,701.5312379
Go ahead.

429
00:39:17,861.5312379 --> 00:39:19,311.5312379
So we want to strengthen everything.

430
00:39:19,311.5312379 --> 00:39:23,71.5312379
Then Colin to, to that point, because we're humans, we want to make everything strong.

431
00:39:23,381.5312379 --> 00:39:23,731.5312379
Hell yeah.

432
00:39:24,341.5312379 --> 00:39:31,281.5302379
One of my favorite feedback comments from everyone that I work with who have goals of climbing harder on the moon board too.

433
00:39:31,281.5302379 --> 00:39:34,871.5317379
I want to send a couple of my V10 projects are like, Oh wow.

434
00:39:34,871.5317379 --> 00:39:35,531.5302379
I feel better.

435
00:39:35,941.5312379 --> 00:39:36,341.5312379
Oh wow.

436
00:39:36,341.5312379 --> 00:39:37,351.5312379
Playing with my kids.

437
00:39:37,351.5312379 --> 00:39:38,611.5312379
Didn't hurt my back this year.

438
00:39:38,931.5312379 --> 00:39:42,681.5312379
I took the pool cover off for the first time and I didn't throw my knee out.

439
00:39:43,51.5312379 --> 00:39:46,671.5312379
You know, these little things are like, Oh, and you got your fingers strong and you're climbing better.

440
00:39:47,661.5312379 --> 00:39:47,931.5312379
Right.

441
00:39:47,951.5312379 --> 00:40:00,171.5312379
Like it's that big picture thing that once people realize, and I think it's important because that creates this sustainability of strength training in your lives as a lifestyle where.

442
00:40:00,986.5312379 --> 00:40:14,516.5302379
If we come at it from a, you know, like a climbing performance standpoint, I think people think it's a means to an end, which is the climbing in season and the performance and the grade where I don't think strength training should ever have a means to an end.

443
00:40:14,816.5312379 --> 00:40:16,6.5302379
I think it's just a lifestyle.

444
00:40:16,6.5312379 --> 00:40:18,186.5312379
It's, you know, you're a human, you're a homo sapien.

445
00:40:18,686.5302379 --> 00:40:29,756.5312379
There's one thing that we know from being coaches and being exercise specialists and being doctors and now community is, you know, like sleeping well, low stress and.

446
00:40:30,131.5312379 --> 00:40:34,771.5312379
Extra force in the body to get you stronger is the best thing for a human body ever.

447
00:40:34,991.5312379 --> 00:40:41,741.5312379
Like it's just outdoes anything maybe besides toothpaste, which has killed off a lot of cavemen with the teeth thing.

448
00:40:41,771.5312379 --> 00:40:44,211.5322379
But, other than that, like getting strong is really good.

449
00:40:44,381.5322379 --> 00:40:45,611.5322379
So the zoom out picture.

450
00:40:45,611.5322379 --> 00:40:45,831.5322379
Yeah.

451
00:40:45,871.5322379 --> 00:40:47,441.5312379
Notice the toes we're getting super strong.

452
00:40:47,801.5322379 --> 00:40:53,111.5332379
but I'll give a little bit of structure like I do with our coaches in our certification course that we do is.

453
00:40:53,581.5332379 --> 00:41:02,401.5322379
Like thinking about the movement patterns that we want to check the boxes of, and we talk about knee stuff.

454
00:41:02,581.5332379 --> 00:41:09,311.5332379
We talk about hip dominant stuff, pushing, pulling both vertically and horizontally.

455
00:41:09,731.5332379 --> 00:41:14,131.5322379
That is probably going to cover the majority of your multi group big movement things.

456
00:41:14,381.5322379 --> 00:41:19,151.5332379
So what that could look like is I can do a squat, which is a two leg knee.

457
00:41:19,501.5332379 --> 00:41:20,951.5332379
Give or take your body position.

458
00:41:21,331.5332379 --> 00:41:21,951.5332379
Again, nuance.

459
00:41:21,951.5332379 --> 00:41:22,691.5332379
We can talk about that.

460
00:41:23,51.5332379 --> 00:41:26,341.5332379
then I do dumbbell row and that can be a horizontal pole.

461
00:41:26,811.5332379 --> 00:41:30,531.5322379
Well, I want to do a press so that I can do bench press and I've got leg stuff.

462
00:41:30,571.5322379 --> 00:41:32,641.5332379
I've got pull and I've got push.

463
00:41:32,981.5332379 --> 00:41:36,61.5322379
And then what we would do is we would just alter one of those variables.

464
00:41:36,101.5332379 --> 00:41:37,471.4332379
So instead of.

465
00:41:37,856.8909613 --> 00:41:41,816.8909613
Let's take dumbbell bench press and I have two arms horizontally pushing.

466
00:41:42,136.8909613 --> 00:41:44,826.8909613
Well, maybe I wanted to make it vertical and now I do a shoulder press.

467
00:41:44,846.8909613 --> 00:41:49,476.8909613
So I have press, but I altered the variable of horizontal to vertical.

468
00:41:49,806.8899613 --> 00:42:01,546.8919613
And I can even send, like a fun little how to algorithm that I have for our coaches, that you can add to your content and put the podcast to help it like visibly as he was goes, but it's four to six exercises.

469
00:42:01,796.8919613 --> 00:42:04,466.8919613
It's I know I have this menu item of boxes.

470
00:42:04,466.8919613 --> 00:42:05,116.8919613
I need to check.

471
00:42:05,611.8919613 --> 00:42:09,431.8919613
Legs, knees, hips, push, pull, horizontal, vertical.

472
00:42:09,771.8919613 --> 00:42:12,911.8919613
Did I get those things? Cool, you have a comprehensive program.

473
00:42:13,271.8909613 --> 00:42:17,821.8919613
And after you check off those boxes or those big rocks, you can go into the little rocks.

474
00:42:17,851.8909613 --> 00:42:19,981.8919613
So maybe it's, calf raises.

475
00:42:20,51.8919613 --> 00:42:26,391.8919613
If you're a big mountain hiker and you have to approach two hours to get to somewhere, right? Your calves are going to be pretty sore.

476
00:42:26,691.8919613 --> 00:42:31,706.8919613
The one thing that the New River Gorge always kicks my ass on, last weekend was the approach is going out.

477
00:42:31,706.8919613 --> 00:42:34,156.8919613
I forget how steep and windy and everything is.

478
00:42:34,156.8919613 --> 00:42:36,496.8919613
It takes 30 minutes to go touch the rock for the first time.

479
00:42:36,996.8919613 --> 00:42:39,56.8909613
And I'm like, damn mountain biking does not do the job for me.

480
00:42:39,156.8909613 --> 00:42:41,306.8919613
I need to stop riding my bike into my local crack.

481
00:42:41,376.8919613 --> 00:42:42,396.8919613
I just stopped walking again.

482
00:42:42,786.8919613 --> 00:42:47,856.8919613
but like general fitness, like it's a big component of actually going to the thing and, and climbing.

483
00:42:48,266.8919613 --> 00:42:52,342.986113
But now we're talking to climbers and climbers want fingers first.

484
00:42:52,552.986113 --> 00:42:59,842.985613
So very often as a coach, I like to do the fingers first, because, you know, you kind of like reeling the climber a little bit.

485
00:42:59,842.985613 --> 00:43:01,32.986113
You're like, Hey, here's fingers first.

486
00:43:01,32.986113 --> 00:43:01,252.986113
Okay.

487
00:43:01,252.986113 --> 00:43:02,612.985113
Now give me some bench press.

488
00:43:02,832.986113 --> 00:43:03,612.986113
Here's a little fingers.

489
00:43:03,652.986113 --> 00:43:04,982.986113
And, you know, so.

490
00:43:05,342.986113 --> 00:43:07,872.986113
They want you to start off, you're going to just do your finger work.

491
00:43:07,882.986113 --> 00:43:10,102.986113
So maybe it's the finger curls or the hang because they're pickups.

492
00:43:10,122.986113 --> 00:43:11,902.986113
We can dive into the actual exercise.

493
00:43:12,192.986113 --> 00:43:17,992.985113
but you do that and now you have a finger rest of doing squats, push, pull.

494
00:43:18,522.986113 --> 00:43:19,372.986113
It's the off season.

495
00:43:19,402.986113 --> 00:43:22,262.985113
So maybe I have a little bit more time and energy, give or take the person.

496
00:43:22,562.987113 --> 00:43:28,432.986113
And I can do it like a second round of fingers, which I think one of the principles of the off season, it allows you more energy to lift, right.

497
00:43:28,732.986113 --> 00:43:31,72.986113
Rather than more energy to use your fingers on the wall.

498
00:43:31,412.986113 --> 00:43:33,122.986113
so it's usually like an optional second time.

499
00:43:36,733.3121645 --> 00:43:37,363.3121645
All right.

500
00:43:37,363.3121645 --> 00:43:44,743.3121645
There's the dreaded fade out to wrap up your free intro to this pro clinic here on strength training, which continues for another hour.

501
00:43:44,773.3121645 --> 00:43:47,323.3121645
And it covers some really, really good stuff.

502
00:43:47,323.3121645 --> 00:43:53,23.3121645
I'm talking about specific and proven finger training protocols that only take about 20 minutes a week.

503
00:43:53,303.3121645 --> 00:44:17,423.3121645
Grip positions to make your finger training more effective and bring faster adaptations, specific exercises for full body strength training that compliment one, another rep and set ranges for each exercise and an example schedule that will work for most climbers, including exactly what to train on each day and how to build impressive strength in just a couple of hours a week, we get really nerdy, but also we get really specific.

504
00:44:17,423.3121645 --> 00:44:21,494.3712466
We get simple in the specificity so that you could leave this pro clinic with.

505
00:44:21,494.3712466 --> 00:44:24,374.3712466
With a training program that you can put to work starting this week.

506
00:44:24,584.3712466 --> 00:44:28,874.3712466
And it'll take you for a few months from fingers to legs, to upper body.

507
00:44:28,994.3712466 --> 00:44:32,854.3712466
It is all there and they lay it out very, very clearly in this pro clinic.

508
00:44:33,50.618378 --> 00:44:47,540.618378
And Hey, if you needed another reason to go ahead and sign up as a patron or apple subscriber beyond just getting the rest of this pro clinic and everything else that you get, you also will be entered to win a custom 12 week plan with coach Colin McGee, including in our consultation.

509
00:44:47,540.618378 --> 00:44:59,990.618378
So you can talk through how you move as a weightlifter, as a climber, what your limitations are, uh, perhaps as a weightlifter, if you've got any injuries, the resources that you have access to all of that will.

510
00:45:00,20.618378 --> 00:45:04,520.618378
Help him to build out a custom self-guided 12 week plan just for you.

511
00:45:04,880.618378 --> 00:45:06,890.618378
And you are automatically entered.

512
00:45:07,10.618378 --> 00:45:14,0.618378
If you support the struggle climbing show or C4 HP as a patron, I recommend supporting both.

513
00:45:14,270.618378 --> 00:45:20,420.618378
So anyway, this contest is going to be open from today, the day of release of this episode to July 3rd.

514
00:45:20,450.618378 --> 00:45:25,430.618378
So you've got a week to swing over, sign up and support one of our Patriana accounts.

515
00:45:25,460.618378 --> 00:45:25,820.618378
There.

516
00:45:26,120.618378 --> 00:45:29,630.618378
And you will automatically be entered for this awesome giveaway.

517
00:45:30,110.618378 --> 00:45:37,400.618378
And if you don't win, or if you just want to go ahead and buy this program and get started right now, you can get a massive discount.

518
00:45:37,400.618378 --> 00:45:40,760.618378
You can use code struggle at checkout over at C4, HP.

519
00:45:40,760.618378 --> 00:45:43,250.618378
For that custom self-guided 12 week plan.

520
00:45:43,460.618378 --> 00:45:44,930.618378
And that's going to give you 50 bucks off.

521
00:45:45,110.618378 --> 00:45:49,940.618378
So it's $125 instead of $175 using code struggle.

522
00:45:50,120.618378 --> 00:45:52,250.618378
The links are in your show notes.

523
00:45:52,410.618378 --> 00:45:56,40.618378
Get strong and thank you again for supporting us on Patrion.

524
00:45:56,554.0185142 --> 00:46:03,34.0185142
if you want to hear the rest of this pro clinic, plus get instant access to more than 60 hours of other banger content.

525
00:46:03,120.6851809 --> 00:46:12,210.6851809
And I'm talking about pro clinics and bonus episodes from the likes of Adam Aandra Chris Sharma, Nina Williams, Dave McCloud, Hazel Findlay, Tom Randall, Alex huddled in so many more.

526
00:46:12,210.6851809 --> 00:46:13,276.1717118
it's all over there.

527
00:46:13,326.1717118 --> 00:46:17,556.1717118
I think it's worth a few bucks a month, but if you don't like it, you can cancel anytime.

528
00:46:17,556.1717118 --> 00:46:18,36.1717118
No worries.

529
00:46:18,36.1717118 --> 00:46:19,56.1717118
No questions asked.

530
00:46:19,237.1823974 --> 00:46:25,807.1823974
If you're an iPhone person, you can subscribe right there in your apple podcast player, or just swing on over to patrion.com/the

531
00:46:25,807.1823974 --> 00:46:30,637.1823974
struggle climbing show to support me there and get instant access to all those goods.

532
00:46:30,910.7752564 --> 00:46:39,520.7752564
I'll be sure to check your show notes for links from this conversation and how to work with today's pro and you can see clips from this conversation over on IgG at the struggle climbing show.

533
00:46:39,735.9098982 --> 00:46:44,205.9098982
The struggle is carbon neutral in partnership with a handled foundation and is a proud member of the plug tone.

534
00:46:44,205.9098982 --> 00:46:48,675.9098982
Audio collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

535
00:46:48,979.2504695 --> 00:46:52,549.2504695
The show is produced and hosted by me, Ryan Devlin and edited by Glen Walker.

536
00:46:53,357.202974 --> 00:46:53,597.202974
All right.

537
00:46:53,597.202974 --> 00:46:57,197.202974
What are you waiting for? Pop over to Patrion and listen to the rest of this banger pro clinic.

538
00:46:57,197.202974 --> 00:46:59,447.202974
I hope your training and your climbing are going great.

539
00:46:59,597.202974 --> 00:47:04,607.202974
And you know what? If you're struggling like me? Well, let's just remember that the struggle makes us stronger.

540
00:47:04,817.202974 --> 00:47:05,177.202974
I'll see.

541
00:47:05,177.202974 --> 00:47:05,507.202974
Y'all.